Paris With Kids
Eiffel Tower
Family Vacation In Paris
We took our first family trip to Paris when my oldest daughter was 4 and my youngest was just 6 months old! Sounds crazy, but we had an amazing time! We took our second family trip to Paris when our girls were 8 and 4 years old. This was an even more amazing trip, and I’ve shared our day-by-day plans here.
This post outlines the best area to stay, family-friendly restaurants, favorite walks, carousels, playgrounds, boulangeries, market streets, and more. Museum Pass info- Should you buy one?
And most importantly, we cover the tips and details for the best way to experience and explore the major attractions in Paris: the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral, Luxembourg Gardens, Musée D’Orsay, a Medieval Castle, a walking tour in the Les Halles neighborhood, a Seine River Cruise, and much, much more!
When talking to others about our family trips to Paris, one of the first questions I get is: “Did you take your kids?” Many assume that Paris isn’t kid friendly, but it is in fact a very family-friendly destination. The city is simply beautiful- the architecture, the food, the gardens, and the people.
It has beautiful monuments and museums, and you'll find a quiet park or playground in every neighborhood, often right behind a famous landmark.
We watched our daughters play with French children on the playgrounds under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Louvre, and a medieval castle.
As one of the most visited cities in the world, navigating the sights of Paris with children in tow requires a bit of strategic planning. Crowds of people and waiting in long lines can be exhausting.
The key to a successful visit is to explore Paris at a leisurely pace, popping into nearby playgrounds along the way, and to take advantage of ways to minimize crowds and lines.
My family loved our trip to Paris, and I share all the activities in detail and the tips we learned along the way!
Traveling To Paris With Kids: Our Plan
Our daily strategy was to pick a neighborhood of Paris, visit a site (maybe two) and explore that area, then blow off steam at a playground while mom and dad sat on a park bench snacking on baguettes and cheese while basking in the surrounding beauty.
We also picked activities that didn’t consume an entire day- we opted for the Musee D’Orsay rather than the massive and crowded Louvre. We visited a beautiful medieval castle on the eastern edge of Paris where my children could explore at will rather than getting lost in the crowds and tour buses of Versailles.
With good planning and the right strategy, the trade-offs were minimal and the experiences enhanced.
And finally, we just had fun. We rode trains (the metro), cruised the Seine River on a boat, climbed up the stairs of the Eiffel Tower, pretended to shoot arrows through the slots of a castle, enjoyed a scavenger hunt for various impressionist paintings, took photos, delighted in selecting beautiful pastries for dessert, and so much more.
So, in closing, don’t hesitate to take a trip to Paris with your kids- you’ll be amazed by the moments-both the expected and unexpected!
Day 1- Travel Day Arriving in Paris
How To Get From Charles DeGaulle Airport To Paris
CDG is located about an 30-60 minutes depending on traffic from city center. If you are renting an apartment, the management agency will often recommend a driver who will pick you up inside the airport (in the baggage claim area) and drive you directly to your apartment. We took advantage of this service using Victor Cabs Paris when we traveled with the family. After an overnight flight, it made it super easy but was more expensive than other options (€115 plus a 10% tip) for a family of four.
A taxi or Uber can take you to city center for about €55.
If you are traveling with light luggage, you can take the RER train which has several stops in Paris and connects with the Metro system. Tickets cost €11 for adults.
The RER B train from the airport stops at Gare du Nord, then at Châtelet Les Halles (the “super” exchange station with 4 metro lines and 3 RER lines available), then Saint Michel/Nôtre Dame, Luxembourg, Port Royal, Denfert-Rochereau, and Cité Universitaire. You will need to determine which metro stop is closest to your lodging and transfer to that line.
This website is super helpful if you wish to take the train.
Tip: If your flight arrives in the early morning, consider adding a night’s stay at the front end of your trip so that you can check in upon arrival rather than wait for an afternoon check-in. It can be worth it even though you didn’t actually sleep there that night.
Safe Area To Stay In Paris
Rue Cler Neighborhood in the 7th Arrondissement
Find lodging in Paris's quiet 7th arrondissement near the Rue Cler Market Street. This location is excellent and within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, 2 metro stations, and the pedestrian-only market street Rue Cler, a foodie's dream.
Paris Perfect rents a variety of apartments throughout the city. They are a super helpful, well respected agency, and provide very nice accommodations. We’ve also used booking.com to rent an apartment in the 7th.
For a family-size hotel room, try Hotel du Cadran, 10 Rue de Champs de Mars
Family-Friendly Places To Stay In Paris and Where We Have Stayed
Paris Perfect's Pomerol Apartment in the 7th (Loved it!)
Apartment on Champs de Mars St through VRBO.com. (The specific apartment is not for rent any longer, but I recommend the street and area)
View from the Pomerol Apartment
Relais Bosquet Hotel in Rue Cler area (I stayed here with my husband sans kids and would return. Loved the location. Would need 2 rooms for a family of 4, so depends on the age of your kiddos.
Heads up: We are not sponsored in any way and have never received compensation at the behest of any organization or company. If you book one of our recommended properties from our website links, you won’t pay a penny more but we may get a small commission which helps support this website. Thanks! Disclosure Statement.
Lodging Advice
All hotel rooms and bathrooms are small in Paris compared to the U.S. Renting an apartment will give your family more space, save money on eating out, and make you feel more like a Parisian than a tourist.
When looking for an apartment, try to find one closest to Rue Cler but not necessarily on Rue Cler Market Street. It can be loud unless you have double-paned windows as the market vendors arrive early and the cafes are open late! We prefer to be south of Rue St. Dominque and east of Avenue Bosquet.
Other safe and convenient areas for families to consider include neighborhoods in the the 6th, the Latin Quarter, and the Marais.
Our Favorite Kid-Friendly Places To Eat In Paris (7th district)
The second most common question I get from others: “Did your kids eat the food there?” French dining can be expensive and the dinner hours are late, especially for families on U.S. eastern standard time.
That being said, we feel we have not compromised on food quality and food experiences by mostly foregoing the fine dining restaurants.
The casual brasseries, market streets, the creperie stands, cheese shops, and boulangeries have captivated and exceeded our every culinary need.
We ate amazing breads (baguettes, croissants, pain au chocolat), delicious cheese, tartines, crepes with Nutella, quiches, wonderful rotisserie chicken, fresh fruit from the market street, and sandwiches (jambon fromage-”ham and cheese”) from the boulangerie.
Cafe Du Marche- Casual bistro with English menu if needed
Cafe Constant- A good choice for foodies but no reservations accepted
Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel- Excellent croissants
Le Petit Cler- Located on Rue Cler
Du Pain et Vais (a boulangerie on the corner of Champs de Mars and Ave. Bosquet) had our favorite baguette.
Neighborhood creperie stands
Street Markets
Rue Cler Market
We enjoyed wandering this pedestrian-friendly street to make our own picnic or to find take out to eat at our lodging. You'll find fruit stands, a cheese shop, wine shops, a creperie, and Jeusselin-Traiteur (a great choice for takeout.) A nearby FranPrix (small grocery) is also convenient.
Marché Président Wilson
If you are in Paris on a Saturday morning, go to this market. It is a sight to behold and is within a 20 minute walk from the Rue Cler area. It is said to be the largest open market in Paris with pâtés, local wines, cheeses, fresh flowers, fresh fish, fresh-baked breads, chickens, meats, pastas, and more.
It’s a good place for souvenirs, and you can enjoy hot food from a creperie or other food stall. We saw a seafood risotto that looked and smelled terrific but opted for a jambon fromage (ham & cheese) crepe.
Directions From Rue Cler: Cross the Pont de l’Alma Bridge and head left up Ave. President Wilson. Times: Open Wednesdays and Saturdays from about 7am-2pm.
Things To Do In Paris With Kids: Day 2
Overview of Day 2 In Paris
Today, you will explore the area surrounding the Eiffel Tower.
Climb the stairs of the Eiffel Tower to the 2nd level
Ride the hand-cranked carousel and enjoy the playgrounds at Champs de Mars Park
Walk and play along the Les Berges de Seine walkway
Consider a trip to one of the museums in the 7th (Musée Rodin, Musée de L’Armée, or Musée D’Orsay)
Day 2 Activity- The Eiffel Tower
If your not a “wait in line person” or couldn’t get tickets for the elevator, you can walk up the 674 steps to the 2nd level of the Eiffel Tower. Walking up the stairs is completely doable, and you will love experiencing the architecture first hand. Take your time (it will take 30-45 min), rest, and enjoy the views. We loved it!
Tip: Stop at the first floor to explore and experience the see-through floor near the restaurant. Then continue on to the 2nd floor for amazing views of the city. The first and second levels also have a snack area with tasty treats and sandwiches.
Some may tell you that going up the Eiffel Tower is overrated. We absolutely disagree. It was one of the highlights for us and our daughters. To avoid the long queues, we chose to walk up the 674 steps to the 2nd level of the Eiffel Tower. The views are fantastic from the 2nd level, and there’s no need to go to the very top (which we’ve done). A long with the shortest queues, it’s also the cheapest ticket.
Tip: Look for the “Escalier-Stairs” ticket booth next to the post office at the south pillar (Pilier Sud). Don’t wait in the long queue with the others waiting for elevators.
You can purchase tickets online 14 days prior or purchase on-site the day of your visit.
Security Check: Do note that you have to queue for security check whether walking the stairs or riding the elevator. Tip: If the queue for security is long on the Champs de Mars side of the Eiffel Tower, check the other side near the Trocadéro. This saved us a huge amount of time.
Day 2 Activity- Playground and Hand-Cranked Carousel in Champs de Mars Park
Just a 5 minute walk from the base of the Eiffel Tower, you will find the wonderful playground and carousel in the Parc Champs de Mars.
It is a beautiful green oasis in the city with plenty of benches to take in the views, grass to spread a blanket, playgrounds, a puppet theater, and a 100 year old, hand painted, hand-cranked carousel.
You will love seeing your kids try to “spear” the rings with their baton as they circle on their horses. The attendant cranking the carousel will cheer them on in French adding to the fun! Definitely a highlight of our trip.
Note that this carousel is not the fancy, new carousel at the foot of the Trocadero behind the Eiffel Tower.
Nearby, you’ll also find a nice playground and benches right behind the hand-cranked carousel. Grab a snack at the stand next to the carousel with crepes to order, sandwiches, croissants, ice cream, etc. Cafes also line the streets surrounding the park.
Pack a picnic or visit the snack stand and enjoy the view while the kids play.
See a summary of the playgrounds we enjoyed in Paris here.
Day 2 Activity- Promenade Les Berges de la Seine
You can bike and/or walk this pedestrian-only 2.3 kilometer path along the Seine River. You can go from the Eiffel Tower (Pont de L’Alma) to the Louvre (Pont Royal) and experience the views and activities along the way.
With climbing walls, hopscotch, and other activities, the whole family is entertained while enjoying a beautiful stroll along the Seine.
Follow for as long as you’d like or make your end point the climbing wall at Pont des Invalides. FYI: “Pont” means bridge.
See our blog post “A Paris Walk Everyone In the Family Will Love” for all the details.
Day 2 Afternoon Activity- See One of the Museums in the 7th
Still have energy? Consider these worthwhile museums located in the 7th. You can walk to both from the Rue Cler area and the Berges de Seine walkway. From the Pont des Invalides, it is a 15 minute walk to Musée de L’Armée and a 20 minute walk to Musée Rodin.
Musée De L'Armée- This museum hosts one of the largest military history and art collections in the world, offering a unique overview of the history France. You will find plenty of suits of armor, canons, breastplates, and swords tracing French military conflicts.
You can also visit Napoleon's gilded tomb which you can see from several viewpoints throughout the city.
Tip: The audio guide offers an age-appropriate version for kids which was informative and kept them entertained.
Allow 2 hours to explore. There are two entrances to the museum: one at Esplanade des Invalides facing Rue de Grenelle and one at Place Vauban closest to the golden dome. Accepts Museum Pass.
Musée Rodin- We loved this smaller, less-crowded museum and seeing Rodin’s “the Thinker” was a highlight. The outdoor sculpture garden is a great place to picnic and see the sculptures, and you can purchase admission to just the garden if you’d like. Allow an hour to explore and picnic. Accepts Museum Pass.
Things To Do In Paris With Kids: Day 3
Overview of Day 3 in Paris
Today is “foodie” day. Today’s Paris itinerary will take you on a walking tour of the Les Halles area of Paris. This could be a good sleep-in day if you need it, because the Pompidou Center doesn’t open until 11am. If you rise early, start at E. Dehillerin instead. Note that the Pompidou Center is closed on Tuesdays and will close for five years starting Summer of 2025!
Today, you will:
Experience the modern art exhibits and ride the escalator at the Center Pompidou to take in gorgeous views of Paris
Walk by the oldest stone house in Paris-a must for Harry Potter fans
Visit the Musée Des Arts et Métiers (optional)
Stroll Rue Montegrueil, one of the oldest market streets in Paris
Stop at the oldest patissier Paris- Stohrer
Take a photo at the Ecoute sculpture in front of Church St. Eustache
Stock up on cooking supplies at E. Dehillerin
Metro: Hotel De Ville or Rambuteau stop for Pompidou Center or Sentier stop for Rue Montegrueil.
Approximate Walking Times
Sentier Metro to Stohrer/Rue Montegrueil: 6 minutes
Rambuteau Metro to Centre Pompidou: 5 minutes
Nic Flamel house to Musée des Arts and Métiers: 8 minutes
Nic Flamel house to Stohrer: 10 minutes
Musée des Art et Métier to Stohrer/Rue Montegrueil: 8 minutes
Stohrer/Rue Montegrueil to St. Eustache Church: 10 minutes
Stohrer to St. Eustache Church: 4 minutes
St. Eustache Church to E. Dehillerin: 5 minutes
E. Dehillerin to Metro Louvre-Rivoli- 6 minutes
Day 3 Afternoon Activity- Center Pompidou
Centre Pompidou
Centre Pompidou, which houses modern and contemporary art, has the most interesting external architecture. The most striking feature is its external tube-like elevator. You can ride it to the top for one of the best views in Paris.
After enjoying the exhibits and the amazing views of Paris, be sure to enjoy the surrounding plaza which often hosts a variety of street performers. Don’t miss the Stravinsky Fountain next door, a colorful water spouting art work in its own right. If you need a snack, there are several cafes and creperie stands surrounding the plaza.
Note that it will close in the summer of 2025 for renovations. Go while you can!
Metro: Rambuteau (line 11) or Hotel de Ville (line 1).
Day 3 Afternoon Activity- 51 Rue Montmorency
If you have any Harry Potter fans in the family, walk by the house of Nicolas Flamel, the oldest stone house in Paris (built in 1407). The ground floor currently houses the restaurant Auberge Nicolas Flamel. “Nicolas Flamel” is the title of chapter 13 in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.
Day 3 Afternoon Activity- Musée des Arts et Métiers
Make your visit to Musée des Arts et Métiers a one hour, quick walk through activity if you are either interested in science and technology, or it’s raining. This quiet museum celebrates inventions, from the grand to the everyday.
An old chapel on the ground floor houses Foucault’s Pendulum, biplanes, and early twentieth-century cars. Further up, you’ll find model bridges, old computers and antique cameras, sundials, a nineteenth-century solar oven, and much more.
Much of it is in French, but you’ll find some English for each exhibit. We enjoyed the instrumentation wing the most with its 16th century sundials, thermometers, and measuring devices. At noon, we attended the demonstration of Focault’s Pendulum but it was spoken in French only. Museum Pass accepted. 60 rue Réaumur. Closed on Mondays. Plan on about an hour to tour.
It’s an 8 minute walk from Nicolas Flamel’s house.
Day 3 Activity- Rue Montegrueil Market Street & Stohrer Patisserie
Stroll down Rue Montegrueil for pastries at the famous Stohrer Patisserie located at 51 Rue Montegrueil. Stohrer is historic, because it was the first pastry shop to open in Paris in the year 1730. This stop is an 8 minute walk from Nicolas Flamel’s house or 10 minutes from Musée des Arts et Métiers.
Enjoy the amazing sweet and savory treats and gaze at the beauty inside (both behind the counter and the ceiling which was painted by Paul Baudry who also decorated the Paris Garnier Opera House.) Our favorite sandwich (jambon, gruyere, arugula) and croissant was found here. Open every day 7:30am-8:30pm.
Day 3 Activity-St. Eustache Sculpture
Ecoute Sculpture at St. Eustache Church
Continue your stroll to admire St. Eustache Church, a true masterpiece of Gothic architecture, built over a one hundred year span from 1532 to 1632. Take a moment for a photo op in front of the “Ecoute” sculpture beside the church. It’s a fun photo op, and the square is beautiful.
Tip: We didn’t mean to go to a Lego Store in the Forum des Halles (a shopping mall) on our way here, but an unintended detour saw us walking right past it. We ended up really enjoying the lego versions of Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and a Patisserie. The Lego Store is located on the street level of Forum des Halles near the Chatelet RER station.
Day 3 Afternoon Activity- E. Dehillerin
Day 3 Activity- Cooking Supplies at E. Dehillerin
A five minute walk from St. Eustache Church brings you to our favorite store in Paris. E. Dehillerin has an impressive collection of anything a cook would desire. (Julia Child apparently loved this place.) They pride themselves on their quality copper pots and cooking utensils.
You will love walking its aisles, and it’s a great place for gifts and souvenirs. We proudly came away with two bread pans and a tomato knife, which we found to be surprisingly affordable. We also purchased additional knives for gifts for the chefs in my family. The staff is super friendly, speaks English, and will be happy to help you.
Tip: Be sure to check out both floors and note that they close for lunch at 12:30 (found that out the hard way). Located at 18 Rue de Coquilliere. Open 9am, closed Sundays.
Tip: If you couldn’t get enough at E. Dehillerin, A. Simon is located close by. Check out their linen towels and cookware. 48 Rue Monmartre. Open 9am, 10am on Saturday, and closed Sunday.
From E. Dehillerin store, walk 5 minutes to take the metro Louvre-Rivoli (lines 1 and 8) to return home to the Rue Cler neighborhood.
Where to Eat in the Neighborhood: Les Halles Nearest the Pompidou Centre
Centre Pompidou Plaza- Several crepe stands and cafes surround the plaza in front of the Pompidou and also along the Stravinsky Fountain to the side of the Pompidou. We had wonderful crepes here.
Dame Tartine on 2 rue Brisemiche (behind the Stravinsky Fountain of the Centre Pompidou Plaza); Nice place to sit and people watch especially if the fountains are going. Open at noon.
On Rue Montegrueil
Stohrer Patisseri on 51 Rue Montegrueil (see previous page)
Boulangerie Collet on 100 Rue Montegrueil; closed weekends.
Musée des Arts et Métiers - If you go to this museum, it has a nice cafe with reasonable prices.
L’as du Falafel is a bit out of the way but if you love fallafel, it is well worth it. You can order takeout from this cafe located at Rue des Rosiers in the "Pletzl" Jewish quarter of the Le Marais neighborhood. The girls and I enjoyed crepes just up the street but my husband raved about his fallafel. About a 25 minute walk from Musée des Arts and Métiers and 10 minutes from Centre Pompidou.
Tip: Depending on the order of your activities, you will need to choose the most convenient metro station to arrive and then return home. Remember to avoid the Les Halles station if you can- it’s massive. Check Metro Opera, Sentier, Louvre-Rivoli, and Rombateau.
Things To In Paris With Kids: Day 4
Overview of Day 4 in Paris
This is one of our favorite days in Paris. Today, you will:
Take the Batobus to cruise along the Seine to Notre Dame Cathedral
Get a book stamped at Shakespeare and Company Bookstore
Check out the gargoyles at Notre Dame Cathedral
St. Chapelle Chapel and its magnificent stained glass (optional)
Marche Aux Fleurs (Flower market)
Stroll the beautiful island of Ile St. Louis
Eat gelato at Berthillion
Walk the Quai de la Tournelle to view the art and book stalls
Relax at the playground on the Jardin Tino Rossi Riverwalk
Return home on the Batobus
Walking Times:
Notre Dame Cathedral to Shakespeare and Company: 4 minutes using Quai de Montebello
Notre Dame to Marche Aux Fleurs: 7 minutes
Notre Dame to St. Chapelle: 6 minutes
Notre Dame to Berthillion: 7 minutes
St. Chapelle to Berthillion: 15 minutes
Berthillion to Quai de la Tournelle: 5 minutes
Berthillion to Shakespeare and Co: 11 minutes
Quai de la Tournelle to Jardin Tino Rossi: 8 minutes
Jardin Tino Rossi to Batobus at Jardin des Plantes: 2 minutes
Day 4 Activity- Batobus Cruise to Notre Dame
Batobus stop near the Eiffel Tower
The batobus will be your form of transportation today. Take the batobus to cruise down the Seine River rather than paying more for a crowded, expensive tour boat. The batobus is essentially a water taxi that stops at several locations along the river. It offers no commentary but does provide a beautiful and comfortable cruise along the Seine.
Tip: It’s also a good rainy day activity as it is covered.
The first departure of the day begins at 10:00am at Tour Eiffel and then stops at: Musée D’Orsay, Saint Germaine des-Pres, Notre Dame, Jardin Des Plants, Hotel de Ville, Louvre, Champs Elysees, Beaugrennelle, and back to Tour Eiffel.
Your ticket is good all day, and you can debark and board as many times as you’d like at any of the above batobus stations. You can buy a one or two day pass. We usually buy a one day pass at the batobus station (look for the discounted Family Pass!).
Journey times between stops:
Eiffel Tower to Musée d'Orsay: 20 min
Musée d'Orsay to Saint Germain des Près : 7 min
Saint Germain des Près to Notre Dame: 15 min
Notre Dame to Jardin des Plantes/Cité de le Mode et du Design: 15 min
Jardin des Plantes/Cité de la Mode et du Design to Hôtel de Ville: 15 min
Hôtel de Ville to Louvre: 11 min
Louvre to Champs-Elysées: 10 min
Champs-Elysées to Beaugrenelle: 20 min
Beaugrenelle to Eiffel Tower: 15 min
If you were to ride the entire loop it would take about 1:40 minutes, not a fast form of transportation by any means.
Catch the 10am batobus at the Tour Eiffel station. It is located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, opposite the Trocadéro. Cross the street and walk down the stairs at the right hand corner of Pont d’léna. Opens at 10am and boats arrive every 40 minutes, but check the timetable to confirm as it varies depending on the season.
Relax and enjoy the 45 minute cruise from Eiffel to Notre Dame. At the end of the day, you will return from the Jardin de Plants station for a leisurely cruise home.
If you desire a more direct and quick route or don’t wish to ride a boat, take Metro line 4 Cité or RER B and RER C: Saint Michel- Notre Dame to get to Notre Dame Cathedral area.
Day 4 Activity-Notre Dame Cathedral
Notre Dame Cathedral
The reopening of Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris is announced for the 8th December 2024. Yay!
Notre Dame Cathedral is a beautiful medieval cathedral steeped in history and located on Ile de la Cité, a large island in the middle of the Seine River, connected to the mainland by several bridges.
The cathedral itself opens at 7:45am, and the queue to just go inside the cathedral (it’s free-no Museum pass needed) can be long but moves fairly fast. Arrive early (preferably on a week day) if you want to go inside. If it’s important to you to tour inside, consider taking the metro here in order to arrive early and then take the batobus home. If you want to avoid all lines, just walking around the cathedral admiring the statues and gargoyles is nice too.
Tip: Find the “Kilometre Zero” marker in the square in front of the cathedral. This spot marks the official center of Paris.
Kilometre Zero
Tip 2: The garden and small playground behind the cathedral in Square Jean XXIII was a great stop to take a rest and let the kids play. (Enter through a gate along Rue du Cloitre-Notre Dame-the tower side of the cathedral).
The Tower Tour - The Towers of the cathedral open daily at 10am for visitors who want to pay to climb the 387 tower steps for close-up views of the gargoyles, spires, and roofs. Admission to climb the stairs is free with the Paris Museum Pass but you'll still have to wait in line with ticket buyers--there is no priority access.
We have always wanted to climb the stairs of the tower to be face to face with the gargoyles but could never muster the patience to wait in a long, long line.
Day 4 Activity- Marche Aux Fleurs
While on the Ile de la Cité, stop by the Marche Aux Fleurs (flower market) for a wonderful stroll and photo op. On Sundays, it includes a bird market (Marche Aux Oiseaux.) Located on Place Louis Lépine (Allée Célestin Hennion) between the Notre Dame Cathedral and Sainte-Chapelle Chapel.
Day 4 Activity-St. Chapelle (optional)
Also, consider a stop at the beautiful St. Chapelle Chapel. The soaring stained glass windows are amazing. Museum Pass accepted. Allow an hour.
Day 4 Activity-Shakespeare and Company Bookstore
We love this English bookstore located directly across the Seine from Notre Dame Cathedral. Pop in and feel the history inside. F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hemingway, and Joyce have all spent hours here. Go upstairs to see the typewriter and “writer in residence sign.”
At Shakespeare and Company, we bought a copy of Alice in Wonderland, mostly as an excuse to get one of the bookstore’s famous “Kilometer Zero” stamps inside the front cover. Ask the clerk to stamp your book at checkout. It’s a fun souvenir and a great gift idea for the bibliophiles in your family. Located at 37 Rue de la Bucherie; Opens 10am.
Day 4 Activity- Ile St. Louis Stroll
Ile St. Louis, a tiny island in the Seine River, takes you out of the hustle and bustle. It is such a picturesque place for a stroll with lots of cafes and shops. Most importantly, it is home to the world famous Berthillion ice cream shop. Continue on to Berthillion (29 Rue St-Louis; 10am-closed on Monday and Tuesday.)
If the line is too long, check out Amorino (47 Rue St. Louis; noon-) for another cold, sweet option.
Day 4 Activity-Stroll along the Quai de la Tournelle
From Ile St. Louis, cross over the river on Pont de la Tournelle to continue to stroll along the beautiful Seine River and view the green stalls “bouquinistes” containing used and new books and art. You’ll find old postcards, sheet music, books, and art work.
We found some lovely prints to bring home for a crazy affordable price, and my daughter bought the French version of the Harry Potter book: Harry Potter-A L’Ecole des Sorciers. Now she just needs to learn how to speak French!
Day 4 Activity- Jardin Tino Rossi Riverwalk/Playground
Continue your walk on the Jardin Tino Rossi Riverwalk, a pedestrian only pathway along the river toward the Jardin de Plants batobus station. On your way, you can enjoy a walk along the waterfront at the Jardin Tino Rossi. It stretches along the Seine riverbanks, from the Institut du Monde Arabe to the Jardin des Plantes. Filled with modern concrete sculptures, it’s a great photo op and even has a fun playground for the kiddos.
Directions: Continue walking down the pedestrian-only riverwalk towards Jardin de Plants. Enjoy the wonderful views and let the kids play! Just a 5 minute stroll further, and you will reach the Jardin des Plantes batobus station where you will board it for home.
Day 4 Activity- Batobus Jardin de Plants to Home
After a lovely day, it’s time to relax on the batobus and head home. The Jardin de Plants batobus station is accessed at Quai St. Bernard.
Where to Eat in the Neighborhood: Notre Dame
You’ll find plenty of cafes, creperie stands, etc. along the streets surrounding the cathedral. Ile St. Louis has lots of cafes. Consider takeout for a picnic by the river.
Mich Sandwiches-10 Place St. Michel (off island-5 minutes west of Shakespeare and Company)
Kayser-14 Rue Monge; (off island- 10 minute walk from Berthillion-closer to Quai de la Tournelle); closed Monday.
Things To Do With Kids In Paris: Day 5
Overview of Day 5 in Paris
This is a light day and rewards the kiddos with a fun day at the park. Luxembourg Gardens is a beautiful place and is enjoyed any day but perhaps best on a Sunday with the Parisian families. Today you will:
Shop at Le Bon Marche and/or Monoprix Department Stores
Play at the playground and picnic at Luxembourg Gardens
Day 5 Activity-Shopping at Monoprix or Le Bon Marche
Monoprix is similar to a Target store but oh so much better. It’s a great place to shop for unique items at affordable prices. Look for souvenir soaps, mustards, gourmet food, cosmetics, kitchen towels, etc. We bought mustards and soaps here and some cute tops for the girls.
You could also buy your picnic supplies here from their grocery section. It’s an 8 minute walk from here to Luxembourg Garden.
24 Boulevard Saint-Michel; Opens 8:30am; Note that it is closed on Sunday.
Getting there-Take the metro line 10 to Cluny-La Sorbonne.
Le Bon Marche, 24 Rue de Sevres, is a gorgeous department store and certainly worth a look. We enjoyed their home section and bought a Peugot Pepper Grinder. Fun! It’s a 12 minute walk to Luxembourg Gardens from here. Opens at 10am except on Sunday-11am.
Also consider picking up your picnic supply next door at La Grand Epicerie, 38 Rue de Sèvres. A must stop for any foodie. It sells 30,000 gourmet products and consists of four main departments: groceries, fresh produce, wines, and the production kitchens.
Getting there-Take the metro line 10 or 12 to Sevres-Babylone.
Day 5 Activity- Picnic at Luxembourg Gardens (Jardin Du Luxembourg)
After shopping, you have an appetite. From Monoprix, walk 7 minutes to Maison Mulot (closed Wednesdays) at 76 Rue de Seine to pick up food for your picnic at Luxembourg Gardens, if you haven’t already.
Tip: Luxembourg Garden also has a cafe next to the playground if you opted not to bring a picnic. Our daughters loved this playground with its “zipline”, climbing ropes, and slides. It’s a good Sunday activity with all the French families relaxing on their day off.
If skipping shopping beforehand, take the metro to the Rue Maubillon station. Pick out your sandwiches at Gerard Mulot and walk down to Luxembourg Gardens (5 minutes to entrance), the largest park in Paris, for a leisurely afternoon and time well spent at this wonderful playground.
You will need to pay a small admission price for both kids and adults, but it’s worth it. Sit and relax watching this Parisian scene through your child’s happy eyes.
On your way to the playground, stroll through the beautiful gardens, watch the kids float their boats in the pond (you can too for €6 rental for 30 minutes), and look for the replica of the Statue of Liberty. It’s truly a beautiful, quiet oasis in the middle of Paris. The playground is located next to the Puppet Theater, which could also be a fun activity.
See a list of activities at Luxembourg Gardens.
Tip: Kids are out of school on Wednesdays, so it can be crowded.
Getting there: If you’re coming straight to the gardens, the RER line B drops you off right in front of the gardens at metro stop Luxembourg.
Still going strong? Consider a side excursion to nearby Rue Mouffetard Street Market. Tuesday and Saturdays are main days but it’s open most mornings. Closest metroCensier-Daubenton. It’s a 15 minute walk from Luxembourg Garden.
Where to Eat in the Neighborhood: Luxembourg Gardens
Luxembourg Garden cafe next to the playground (sit down or takeout.)
Patisserie Gerard Mulot at 76 Rue de Seine; closed Wednesday. 5 minute walk to the northern end of the Garden.
Kayser at 14 Rue Monge is an absolute favorite boulangerie of ours. 15 minute walk to the Garden. Closer to Monoprix. Closed Monday.
La Grand Epicierie at 38 Rue de Sèvres. If you are a foodie, you need to find a way to make it here. It’s a bit expensive but an incredible variety of food products (30,000 of them!) It’s fun just to look, and a good place to stock up for a picnic. It’s a 12 minute walk from Luxembourg Gardens.
Day 6 Paris Itinerary- Musée D’Orsay Day
Overview of Day 6 In Paris
Today, start at the the Musée D’Orsay, famous for its Impressionist paintings. Afterwards, relax at the Tuileries Garden while the children play. You could also go by the Louvre Museum to see its plaza where the kiddos will enjoy seeing the glass pyramid structures. Today, you’ll see the:
Musée D’Orsay
Tuileries Garden Playground
Louvre Pyramids
Musée de l’Orangerie (optional)
Day 6 Morning Activity-9:30am- Musée D’Orsay
The Musée D’Orsay is a former railway station that now houses one of the best Impressionist collections in the world. It really is a “must see.”
Tip: Before your trip, find 5-10 paintings from the D’Orsay collection and print them out for a scavenger hunt or take photos on your phone. Alternatively, hit the gift shop first to buy 5 postcards of art pieces found in the museum. My girls loved searching for their favorite paintings and Degas sculptures.
To prioritize your time, you might consider which pieces you definitely want to see. In general, a good approach might be to start at the top floor (5) and work your way down. For example, Van Gogh’s paintings are primarily on the 2nd floor and Degas’ ballerinas, Renoir, Cezanne and Monet are on the 5th floor. We visited the 5th floor and 2nd floor only before the kids were ready to move on.
Tip: Don’t miss the view from the top floor (5th floor) terrace, you can see the Seine, the Louvre, Tuileries Garden. It’s really beautiful. Find the large clock and look through it for a unique viewpoint of Paris. Also, take a peek at the “Salle des fêtes” (ballroom) on the second floor with its large chandeliers and all thegilding. Trés Paris!
Opens at 9:30am; closed Monday; don’t go Tuesday as the Louvre is closed and it will be packed. Sunday is also a busy day.
Tip: The least busy days are Wednesdays and Fridays. Buy tickets ahead online if not using a Museum Pass, and it’s important to arrive early. Ticket holders enter through Gate C next to the main entrance. Allow at least 2 hours for this activity.
Getting There: It’s a 25 minute walk from Rue Cler Market Street. Metro: line 12, to Solférino or RER: line C to Musée d'Orsay.
Day 6 Activity- The Louvre
The Louvre
You will notice that we did not include the infamous Louvre Museum. We’ve visited it on other trips and found it overwhelming unless you are an absolute art buff and want to spend hours (perhaps even days!) there. The crowds are stifling, and the Mona Lisa is covered by plastic glass and surrounded by crowds of tourists.
The plaza surrounding the Louvre, however, is quite picturesque with the glass pyramids. It’s a fun photo op after a morning at the Musée D’Orsay.
The Louvre Pyramids are a 15 min walk from Musée d’Orsay, or you could consider making it a stop on the Batobus day (Day 4).
Day 6 Activity-Tuileries Garden Playground
After visiting the Musée D’Orsay, cross the pedestrian-only Solferino bridge toward the Jardin de Tuileries in search of the large, fun playground located near the Place de la Concorde end of the park.
In the northwest corner of the playground, you will also find trampolines (a €2 fee for 5 minutes of jumping) and more playground equipment. Sit and relax while the kids get their museum wiggles out. Note: The trampolines are designed for kids aged 2-12. They are easy to miss if you are walking down the main alley (grand allée). They are located closer to the Rue de Rivoli and the Tuileries metro exit.
Tip: Still have energy? A side excursion to the nearby Musée de L’Orangerie is an option. (Opens 9am; closed Tuesdays) We haven’t been to this museum, but it houses Monet’s full wall-size Water Lilies painting. Accepts the Museum Pass.
Where to Eat in the Neighborhood: Musée D’Orsay
Musée D’Orsay has two cafes and a restaurant. The restaurant looks beautiful but is a bit pricey. The cafe on the 2nd floor is also pricey. The ground floor cafe was more cafeteria style and has a decent selection of sandwiches and snacks to tide you over. You’ll also find food stands on the plaza of the museum.
Tuileries Garden has snack booths and cafes on either side of the main path, offering salads, sandwiches, snacks and drinks. A bit pricey but location, location, location.....Cafe Des Marronniers may be your best bet here.
Kayser near Louvre Pyramids; 4 Rue de l’Echelle near Franprix; a 10 minute walk from Tuileries Garden.
Higuma Japanese- 63 Rue Saint Honoré. Get your ramen noodle fix here. Apparently people love it for a budget lunch. It’s located closer to the Louvre.
Le Petit Vendome; 8 Rue de Capucines; 500m from Tuilleries Garden and walk through Place Vendome. A nice little cafe with good reviews. It’s located about 10 minutes walk from Tuileries Garden. Closed Sunday.
Things To Do With Kids In Paris: Day 7
Overview of Day 7 In Paris
Visit the medieval castle- Chateau de Vincennes
Stroll, picnic, and play in the Parc de Floral in the Bois de Vincennes
This day was another favorite in Paris. We had the castle to ourselves, and the children loved exploring inside it. The chapel was also beautiful. Afterwards, we enjoyed a picnic at the beautiful Parc de Floral behind the castle. The girls thought this playground was the best of their visit.
Morning Activity 10am- Chateau de Vincennes
Chateau de Vincennes
Pack a picnic and head to the metro--it’s time to see a castle. A trip to Europe would not be complete without visiting a castle rich in history. This day was a hit with everyone. Located on the edge of eastern Paris, Chateau de Vincennes is the opposite of Versailles’s extravagance. (It also has a fraction of the visitors.)
This beautiful castle is the largest royal medieval fortress still standing in France, complete with a moat (it’s dry however) and dungeon, and it’s easily accessible from the center of Paris. It was at the heart of the French monarchy until 1682, when Louis XIV chose to settle in Versailles. It has also been used as a prison (Fouquet, the Marquis de Sade, and Mirabeau were held here) and as a barracks and arsenal under Napoleon.
Cost: Free with Museum Pass. Opens at 10am. Take Metro line 1 (yellow line) to the last station, Station Chateau de Vincennes. The station is located super close to the castle. You can use a regular metro ticket to get there. From Rue Cler area, plan on about 50 minutes of walking/metro time to get there.
Afternoon Activity-Bois de Vincennes-Parc de Floral
After visiting the castle, walk around the castle towards the Parc de Floral. Stroll by the beautiful flower gardens, large oak trees, lakes, pathways, and large children’s play area (listed as "Jeux pour enfants"). You’ll find a map upon entry to the park.
During the summer there is a small admission fee, but it’s free other times of the year. We would certainly return here on future visits and would rent bikes for the family to explore!
Excellent map of Bois de Vincennes
Where to Eat in the Neighborhood: Chateau de Vincennes
If you didn’t pack a picnic, you can grab a bite at any local boulangerie or cafe near the metro station. Nearby Fred Artisan Boulanger, 8 Ave de Chateau, gets good reviews.
You’ll also find Les Magnolias Cafe inside Parc Floral which has a pleasant outdoor terrace. Enjoy lunch or snacks.
Other Recommended Paris Museums and Sites
Musée Picasso
Musée Picasso is a smaller museum and looks like a worthwhile visit. Breizh Cafe is also close by at 109 Rue Vieille du Temple. They are known for their unique crepes.
Sacre-Coeur and Montmartre
Arrive early to the beautiful white Basilica-Sacre-Coeur to avoid heavy crowds. Walk up the steps to enjoy the view or go for the sunsets which are said to be amazing from here. Stroll the cobbled streets around Montmartre to see the world as painted by Toulouse-Lautrec. Overall, we found it super touristy and might recommend skipping it. But, you may need to judge for yourself.
That’s all for this itinerary. Have a blast in Paris and make sure to get your fill of baguettes and cheese. So good!
Helpful Info When Planning Your Trip To Paris
Our Paris With Kids Itinerary
“All the information you need in a handy, convenient PDF file on your device. You’ll find all the details you need for each day including worthwhile stops along the way to each location, travel time between destinations, the best family-friendly hikes and sites, helpful tips, labeled maps, and the best lodging/dining choices for each part of your trip. Happy Trails!”- Amy
Getting Around Paris By Metro
The city is best seen by walking, and it is a very safe and walkable city. The Paris metro system is an efficient way to reach the highlights of Paris, and your children will love riding on “a train.” Each line has a number, but they are best known for their end of the line station name.
We purchased the Navig Easy Pass at the station but the Bonjour RATP app looks super convenient, and we will try it next time. For the Navig Easy Pass, you purchase the pass and then “top up with tickets.” We added a “carnet” of tickets. A “carnet” includes 10 tickets and is good for the metro, RER (within the city), and buses. A children’s carnet is 1/2 price. A single ride ticket costs €2,15.
Note that you cannot use the same ticket to transfer from the metro to the bus, but the ticket is good to transfer from one metro line to another.
The Paris Tourism Board sells a pre-loaded carnet of tickets on the Navig Easy Pass that you can pick up upon arrival or have delivered to your hotel for a fee.
Another convenient option is to purchase a Paris Visite Pass which gives you unlimited rides for either a 1, 2, 3, or 5 day pass.
Tip 1: Not all train doors open automatically and may have a push button or pull lever to open.
Tip 2: To limit excessive walking, try to avoid transferring at these stations (the platforms are huge and often require you to walk quite a ways to transfer to another line):
Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Chatelet-Les Halles
Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Gare du Nord
Bastille
Tip 3: When exiting the station, look for the word “Sortie” (Exit).
Apps - Transportation Apps To Use When Traveling In Paris
The Citymapper-Paris App is a must. It gives you the route and the time it will take to reach your destination by bus, walk, metro, and even bike rental. It even tells you whether to sit in the front or back of the train to expedite your transfer or exit. It’s extraordinary and free. Needs WiFi.
If you need a “data free” map, download Umon’s CityMaps2Go. It traces your GPS signal on your phone so you can see where you are on the map. It doesn’t provide directions, but you can save each site you expect to visit on the map and view the distance from your position. I used CityMapper-Paris in the apartment with WiFi and Umon’s City Maps2Go on the street.
Is the Paris Museum Pass Worth It?
The Short Answer is “Yes”. The Paris Museum Pass cuts out the queues and saves you money if you are planning to visit several museums. Most of the museums in this itinerary as well as almost every museum you would want to visit is included with the Museum Pass (Louvre, Musée D’Orsay, Pompidou, Rodin, Picasso, Notre Dame Towers, and more....)
The Museum Pass costs €62 for two days, €77 for four days, or €92 for six days. Note that the days must be consecutive. Keep in mind it does not cover the Eiffel Tower, and you still have to queue at Notre Dame Cathedral (once opened) to climb the tower stairs.
Also, keep in mind that children get in free to most museums without a Museum Pass, so you would only need to purchase the pass for adults. The best part of the Museum Pass is the accelerated entry by avoiding the ticket queue. You can buy the pass online or at any participating museum.
Tip: Alternatively, if you don’t buy the museum pass, you can buy advance tickets from most museum websites to avoid the ticket queues.
Paris Passlib’ —As an FYI: If you want it all, the Paris Passlib’ combines the Paris Visite (unlimited metro) with the Paris Museum Pass (expedited entry and ticket savings).
Cell Phones
Tip: Call your cell phone provider to get international coverage. With AT&T, for instance, it cost $10 for each day we used cellular. Some days we only used WiFi and didn’t pay a fee for that day.
Credit Cards
Credit Cards- Don’t Forget! Notify your credit card and bank to let them know you are traveling to France. Make sure your credit card does not charge foreign transaction fees.
ATMs
Once in Paris, use your ATM card to withdraw some cash for your trip. Most places take credit card (use one without foreign transaction fees) so you don’t need too much cash. We took out €150 and it was plenty. We used our credit card for most purchases and used cash at the boulangeries, crepe stands, and parks. Some grocery stores had a €20 minimum purchase to use a credit card. You’ll find many banks and ATMs in the 7th arrondissement and throughout city center.
Your Cell Phone
Check with your cell phone provider to see what they offer while traveling in Paris. Most plans will charge you around $10 a day to use your phone with your current data plan. Alternatively, you can rent a “hot spot” while in Paris to have WiFi at all times. Our apartment rental agency offered a hot spot for about €60 week. It’s useful to use your phone for accessing maps, directions, and Yelp reviews.
French Culture
Contrary to popular opinion, we found most Parisians to be nice, welcoming, and helpful. Parisians seem to pride themselves on their politeness, so return that in kind. Although most speak English in the city center, it is courteous to greet storekeepers with a pleasant “Bonjour, hello.” This is a respectful way of honoring their culture but making it clear that you do not speak fluent French.
Learning just a few French phrases is helpful and also fun for the children to practice: “Bonjour Madame” or “Bonjour Monsieur” (Hello mam, Hello sir), “S’il vous plait” (please), “Merci” (thank you), and “Au Revoir” (goodbye). To ask if someone speaks English, say “Parlez-vous anglais?”
Tip: My girls enjoyed the free and fun Duolingo app prior to our trip.
What To Wear
When we first traveled to Paris, we were a bit worried about the Paris fashion scene and wondered if everyone would look overtly fashionable. Surprise! The Parisians we saw looked nicely put together but not couture by any means. Most wore nice blue jeans and fashionable sneakers, and we did not feel out of place wearing the same. Wear comfortable shoes (for lots of walking), a sharp looking jacket, and perhaps throw on a scarf. Voila!
Movies To Watch Before Your Trip To Paris
Paris Je t’aime
Midnight in Paris
The Davinci Code
Amelie
Before Sunset
French Kiss
Camille Claudel- 1989 movie about the famous sculptor Rodin • Ratatouille (family friendly)
Madeline (family friendly)
The Hunchback of Notre Dame (family friendly)
Recommended Paris Guide Books
Eyewitness Top 10 Paris- It’s small, portable, and concise. Metro map included.
Mission Paris. A Scavenger Hunt Adventure by Catherine Aragon-You’ll find some fun ideas here for the kiddos.
Have a fantastic family vacation in Paris! Hope this itinerary has been helpful! Have fun and bon travels!- Amy