The Complete Guide To Hydra- What To Do, Where To Stay, Where To Eat, Plus How To Get Around An Island With No Cars
Dramatic Coastal Scenery, Gorgeous Beaches, Beautiful Hikes, Amazing Restaurants Full Of Fresh Seafood - Hydra Is A Magical Island Free From Cars And Traffic
Hydra is one of our favorite Greek islands although I feel like I say that about every Greek island I have been blessed to visit so far. (But it’s true this time, really.) I think Hydra has everything stereotypically awesome about a Greek island- beautiful beaches, quaint cobblestone streets with bougainvillea everywhere, small villages, local tavernas, gorgeous coastal scenery, and sparkling blue seas. It is almost like a movie set, and in fact, it has been one- Sophia Loren’s Boy On A Dolphin.
What Hydra is known for though, is its complete lack of cars. When was the last time you went to a place that banned all motorized transport? It is fantastic to experience and one of the reasons Hydra is one of my favorite places in Greece.
Hydra is a great place to visit for families too, as you can let the kids wander without worrying that they are going to get run over by anything besides a mule. I could spend a week here just hiking around and relaxing by the water with the kids. (Or maybe without the kids- that way I could actually get some beach reading done :). The large number of walking trails leading all over the island are the best thing about Hydra though. (Besides the no cars.)
The views of the strikingly blue Mediterranean are mesmerizing, the cobblestone streets are charming, and the fresh fish at the tavernas is delicious. Sounds pretty awesome right? Well, Hydra is just that awesome and absolutely worth a visit if you are looking for a piece of Greece away from the bus crowds of fellow travelers.
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The only way to get to Hydra is by boat. You arrive in the main town of Hydra Port and it is such a beautiful place.
Snapshot Of Your Two Magical Days In Hydra
Where To Stay On Hydra
We have an exhaustively detailed list in a separate blog (it made this one waaay too long, like War And Peace long, to include it here) but our top 3 recommendations would be:
Phaedra Hotel A nice hotel in Hydra Port with 2, 3, and 4 person rooms. My favorite is the Athena & Artemis suite that sleeps 4 and has a gorgeous private terrace with sea views. A delicious breakfast is included as well. There is a 2 night minimum.
Four Seasons Hydra is a beautiful resort in the village of Vlychos Plakes, a short boat ride or 2 mile walk from Hydra Port. It has gorgeous rooms, many with sea views and verandas, a good taverna onsite, and it is the best place to go if you just want to hang out by the beach in a peaceful, gorgeous setting and have great food right there.
Pretty 3 bedroom house in Hydra town close to the port, no steps, pvt courtyard is a great choice for a vacation rental in Hydra Port. It can sleep 7 in 3 bedrooms but most importantly, it has 3 bathrooms, quite the rarity for European lodgings. Nice private courtyard for obligatory alfresco dining.
For more recommendations and detailed reviews, see “Where To Stay In Hydra, Greece.”
Day 1- Arrival And Explore Hydra Port
Check into your hotel by the beach or tucked up among the cobblestone streets of Hydra Port. Spend the afternoon exploring the main town or walk to a nearby beach and enjoy the views, preferably with an umbrella drink in hand. Have a fabulous dinner of local seafood while watching the sunset over the Mediterranean.
Day 2- Hiking And Beach-Going
(Or just “Beach” if you are channeling your inner “Kenergy”.)
Take our easy 3 mile hike around Hydra that hits some of the highlights of this island- a walk through cobblestone streets, gorgeous coastal paths, fabulous views everywhere, and a delicious taverna lunch by the beach. Other options for the day include a big hike to the top of the island or to the eastern end for even more dramatic and unforgettable scenery. Or, if relaxing on the sand is your main goal, take a boat taxi to a remote beach surrounded by crystal clear water and undeveloped natural beauty.
It all sounds pretty amazing right? And I am not even upselling it that much, promise. So keep reading to find out all the details you might need to know to plan your very own Hydra vacation, including where to eat, what to expect weather- wise, how to get to Hydra, etc. I’ve even got the big holidays on Hydra listed and a short history of the island (like really short- just the basics things that you might come across on your visit).
Table of Contents
Planning Guide To Hydra - All Things You Might Want To Know Before You Go
How Do I Pronounce Hydra?
The name is pronounced EE- dra so not like the villains in the Marvel comics/ movies. It is written Υδρα in Greek. You will also see it written Idra sometimes.
Where Is Hydra?
Hydra is one of the 7 Saronic Islands, located in the Aegean Sea, off the coast of the Peloponnese Peninsula in Greece. It is the 3rd largest of the islands at 50 sq km.
The other Saronic Islands are Aegina, Spetses, Poros, Angistri, Salamis, and Dokos (although that last one is a tiny spit of land just offshore of Hydra so barely an island in my book). I tell you this because some of the ferry routes often stop at one of the other islands too so it may be important. (Or one day it could come up in trivia and you would be such a hero.)
Map Of Hydra And Basic Description Of The Island
The biggest town on Hydra is also called Hydra or Hydra Port or even sometimes Hydra Town -- it is a little confusing at first but you’ll get the hang of it. (I will call it Hydra Port in this blog so it’s super clear.)
Hydra Port is where the ferries come in and the water taxis and beach boats are docked. Most everything is in Hydra Port- most of the hotels, restaurants, and shops are there. The post office is also, as is the pharmacy, emergency services, the museums… you get the picture. Between all the ferries, water taxis, fishing boats, and visiting mega-yachts, the harbour can get quite busy during the day which is entertaining to sit back and watch.
There are several other villages along the coast both east and west of Hydra Port- Mandraki is to the east and Kamini, Vlychos, and Vlychos Plakes are to the west of Hydra Port. That’s about it for populated villages on the island.
Everything is on the north coast of Hydra, facing the mainland for the most part. There is nothing in the center of the island or the southern coast of Hydra except for some churches, monasteries, scattered farmhouses, and abandoned buildings. There are a couple of tiny beaches and coves on the southern coast that can only be reached by boat or a long hike/horseback ride.
The busy harbor of Hydra Port. There are fishing boats, water taxis, private boat rentals, ferries, cargo boats, and occasionally, huge luxury yachts. So much fun to watch it all.
How Long Should I Spend On Hydra?
I would spend at least one night here if it's at all possible. Many tourists just spend one day or even an afternoon in Hydra as it is pretty easy to do just a day trip to Hydra on the ferries. And some island tours will hit Hydra, Spetses, and Poros in one full day. It is a great way to see at least some of this wonderful island but you probably won’t have time to see much beyond Hydra Port or maybe walk over to Kamini.
Part of the magic of your trip to this island is seeing Hydra when all the day tourists have gone away so try to spend the night if you at all can. It is worth it.
If you want to do beaches and hiking, I would aim for at least 2 full days/ 2 nights which is the itinerary outlined in this blog. If you are really into hiking, then I would spend at least 3-4 days on the island so you can fit in more of the long hikes I mention.
Are There Really No Cars On Hydra?
There are no cars, trucks, ATV’s, mopeds, or even bicycles on Hydra- basically all wheeled vehicles are banned except for emergency service vehicles and the garbage trucks. Mules/ donkeys/ horses are the main way to transport goods. If you buy a new refrigerator, you had better make sure it is mule-sized before you ship it to the island. The BBC did a whole article on Hydra titled “Hydra: The Greek Island That Banned Wheels.”
How To Get Around Hydra Since There Are No Cars
There are 3 ways to get to any destination on Hydra- 1) by foot, 2) by mule/ horse/ donkey, or 3), by boat. That’s it. Those are your choices.
Walking Around Hydra
The most common way to get around Hydra is by foot. Most things are in or near Hydra Port and the coastal paths connect the larger villages to Hydra Port. So pack your comfy shoes for your trip as you will use them.
Mules And Donkey Transport On Hydra
If you have heavy luggage or are mobility impaired, then hire a mule/ donkey in the harbour of Hydra Port to get you to your destination. The mules are located by Alpha Bank on the east side of the harbour, the side that’s closer to the ferry drop-off which is helpful. There is a notice board nearby with set prices for all of the muleteers (€10-20 for 2 suitcases, depending on the zone).
Water Taxis On Hydra
The water taxis on Hydra run on demand and can carry up to 8 people. Prices are per trip for the water taxi and are set by a fixed tariff. Like just about everything on Hydra, the website HydraDirect has a great page about the water taxis on Hydra and a current list of prices to the most common destinations on the island.
Download a couple of numbers for the water taxis into your phone form the HydraDirect website or from the notice boards on the boats in Hydra Port. It is helpful when you are out somewhere and don’t want to walk anymore. We also found that shop owners and tavernas were good about calling a water taxi for us if our cell phones didn’t work.
If you take a water taxi out to one of the more remote destinations, make sure to arrange a pick- up ahead of time as cell service can be iffy. You do not want to be stuck on a remote beach overnight. (Or maybe you do?)
Beach Boats On Hydra
The beach boats tend to be larger boats than the water taxis and they go to the most popular beaches on Hydra- Vlychos, Plakes, Bisti, Nikolaous & Mandraki. They have set pick-up and drop-off times and prices are per person. Each operator will have a sign on his boat at the harbour in Hydra Port listing departure times, return times, and prices.
The beach boats are about €12 - €20 per person return (sometimes more depending on the destination) and you must buy a return ticket by law, even if you decide to walk back. If you want to walk to a beach and ride back, then still buy your ticket ahead of time.
If you have a group of 4 or more people, you might be better off with a water taxi, cost and convenience-wise, than a beach boat. For example, a water taxi for 4 people will cost you about €30 total to Vlychos Plakes one -way (2023 prices) for 1 -8 people whereas a beach boat will cost you €10- €12 a person so 4 people = €40.
You will see lots of mules and donkeys and horses carrying all kinds of things around Hydra. Plus, lots of beautiful bougainvillea.
Weather On Hydra - When Is The Best Time To Visit?
Best Time To Go To Hydra
For beaches and swimming —Summer, early fall
For hiking— Spring or fall
For avoiding crowds and meeting locals —Winter
Best overall time to visit Hydra— Early June or in September in my opinion as you get the best weather with fewer tourists than in July and August.
Here is a breakdown of the seasons on Hydra:
Winter (Nov- early March)- The Off-Season For Tourists
Averages high temperatures are 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit (13-18 Celsius) with January usually being the coldest month.
A little touch of snow is not unheard of on the mountains and this is definitely when Hydra gets the most rain, averaging 10-12 days a month with rain in Dec and Jan.
Tourist crowds are gone and many restaurants and hotels may be closed for the off-season but there are still things going on. Lots of people live on Hydra year-round and some cruise ships still visit.
Spring (late March- May)
Average high temperatures are 66- 76 degrees Fahrenheit (19- 24 Celsius) with May being warmer than April.
Water temperatures start climbing as well but as someone who tried to go swimming on May 31 on a hot day, they are still super cold! It was around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 Celsius) which is cold for this southern US beach person. In April, it is more like 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 Celsius) so not good for the swimming.
It is less rainy in spring than in winter with only 5-7 days of rain each month on average.
There are some pretty wildflowers so if you are into hiking, this could be a great time for you.
Summer (June, July, August)- The Tourist High Season
Average high temperature are around 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 Celsius) in July and August and 100 degree (38 Celsius) days are not unusual in July. June is about 10 degrees cooler on average.
The water temperature gets up to 75 -78 degrees Fahrenheit (24 -26 Celsius) which is still cool for me but it is refreshing when it is so hot out.
Rain is rare with only 1-3 days a month on average and less than 0.5 inches. August is the driest month.
Fall (Sept- Oct)
It is still warm with average highs in the low 80s and 70s Farenheit (25- 29 Celsius) but can be chilly at night (mid to low 60s).
The water temperature remains pretty high at around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 Celsius) average considering, not high enough for swimming for me but probably fine for other people.
It averages around 4-6 days of rain a month so still plenty of sunshine for tourists although slightly less than in the summer.
Getting To The Island Of Hydra
Almost Everyone Comes By Public Ferry To Hydra
You can only reach Hydra by boat as there is no airport on the island. (You can take a helicopter to a spit of land just offshore but then you have to take a water taxi to Hydra itself so my statement stands- you can only reach Hydra by boat.)
My preferred way to get to Hydra is either the daily ferries from Piraeus (the port town of Athens) or a short ferry ride from the town of Metochi on the Peloponnese Peninsula.
Map of Ferry Routes To Hydra From Athens And The Peloponnese Peninsula
Map showing Hydra’s location in relation to Athens and its port of Piraeus, the other Saronic Islands of Poros and Spetses, as well as the Peloponnese Peninsula. Map courtesy of OpenStreetMaps with my own additions.
Traveling To Hydra From Athens/ Piraeus
(Piraeus is the port of Athens and where all the ferries leave from)
Hellenic Seaways runs the big public ferries from Piraeus to Hydra. The trip can take anywhere from 1-2 hours depending if it is direct or if they stop in Poros on the way. It will also depend on what boat they use as some are faster. The schedule on the website tells you the estimated trip time for each departure.
There are quite a few ferries each day in the summer, like 4-5 per day on weekdays and 5-6 per day on weekends. That number drops a bit in the offseason.
Hellenic Seaways also run ferries to Hydra from Ermioni on the Peloponnese Peninsula and to/ from the fellow Saronic Islands of Poros and Spetses. You could spend a fantastic week exploring all 3 islands.
A Ferry From Metochi To Hydra
Metochi is a tiny town on the Peloponnese Peninsula. It is the closest to Hydra out of all of the options so it makes for the shortest ferry ride. This is the best option if you are renting a car in Greece and where most of the Hydra locals leave their car if they have one.
HydraLines - Freedom Passenger Ferries operates a ferry for the short, 30 min trip across to Hydra from Metochi. It is fairly cheap (€7.50 in 2023) and boats run about every hour in the summer and less often in the winter. The scenery is gorgeous but the boat is small so it can be a little more up and down as compared to the big ferries from Athens. But you are spending much less time on the water so even our seasick-prone kids were okay.
There is a ticket booth for the Freedom ferry by the parking area in Metochi but if it is the off-season, they may not be manned and you must buy your ticket on the boat. The ticket area has bathrooms and a small restaurant, as well as a place to buy ice cream and bottles of water (again, don’t count on those being open in the off-season). You will find a bathroom onboard the ferry but it is a marine toilet (think port-a-potty on a boat).
Park in the secure parking lot (it is about €5 per day for a 24 hour attendant inside a fence) rather than trying to park your car on the side of the road as some of the locals do.
Driving To Metochi From Athens
The drive from Athens to Metochi takes approximately 3 hours and is a relatively easy and scenic drive. From the coastal road near Metochi, you will see small signs for Hydra, telling you where to turn for the ferry pier (it is labeled on Google Maps too).
Interesting stops along the route from Athens to Metochi to consider are the Corinth Canal (right by the road), Theatre of Epidavros (amazing acoustics that the kids will love to try out), and the island of Poros (super short ferry ride from the main road).
Other Ferry Operators To Hydra
There is a twice-weekly ferry from Tolo on the Peloponnese peninsula, run by Pegasus Cruises. Tolo is a pretty beach town just south of Nafplio, which itself is a fabulous place to explore if you are thinking about doing the Peloponnese Peninsula. These ferries are day cruises for tourists that stop for a few hours on Spetses and Hydra and then return to Tolo, but we have heard you can take them one-way if there is room. Email Pegasus to find out more.
The Freedom Express ferry at its Metochi dock. Hydra can be seen in the background of the picture.
Beaches On The Island Of Hydra
Hydra’s beaches don’t measure up to some of Greece’s more famous islands in many people’s opinions, but the water is wonderfully clear and they are a lot less crowded for the most part so I think they are better. The scenery is fantastic as well, especially without big condo high-rises in the background.
I will go ahead and give you a basic introduction now so when we talk about some of the beaches in the itinerary, you will have a reference.
Best Beach On Hydra
I don’t have a favorite beach on Hydra because it totally depends on what I am looking for. If I only want to spend an hour or so on the beach, then I am walking to somewhere near Hydra Port most likely. But if I want to spend the day, then I would take a beach boat or water taxi to one of the more distant beaches. Some beaches have WiFi and music if I am wanting more of a lively atmosphere and some are quiet places perfect for reading a book on a sun lounger all day.
The website HydraDirect has an excellent list of all of the beaches on the island, how to get to them, as well as pictures. Click on “Hydra Beaches” to see an individual description of all of the island’s beaches, including whether they have refreshments, music, or WiFi.
*Pro-Tip- Wear water shoes as there are lots of sea urchins and many of the beaches are pebbly, if not downright rocky. The larger and more touristy beaches probably won’t have sea urchins in the main areas but they can unhappily surprise you sometimes.
Getting To The Beaches On Hydra- Walk, Water Taxi, Or Beach Boat
Walking is the best option to the beaches nearest to Hydra Port, like Kamini and Mandraki, and is easy along the paved coastal paths. Just keep in mind that there is very little shade anywhere on Hydra so you might think about a water taxi or beach boat on really hot summer days.
Some of the more distant beaches require quite a long hike (several miles) or a horseback ride to reach so going by water is a good idea. (Unless you like spending the day hiking, then by all means, go for it. It’s a great way to spend the day in my opinion.)
Some beaches are only reachable by boat, especially on the south side of the island.
A map showing some of the most popular beaches on Hydra that you can either walk to or take a beach boat to. There are other, smaller beaches and coves scattered around the island, especially on the southern coast that you would need to hire a water taxi to get to. And there are small swim platforms or rocky areas also scattered around the more populated areas and along the coastal paths so you will see little pockets of people hanging out. It’s so very Greek. Map courtesy of OpenStreetMaps with my own additions.
Beaches East Of Hydra Port
Mandraki 1800
1 mile east of Hydra Port; walk or water taxi
You can easily walk to the small pebbly beach in front of Mandraki 1800 Taverna or you can hire a water taxi for the short ride. The coastal path leads east to Mandraki from Hydra Port starting at the bastion by the entrance to the harbour.
Mandraki
1.1 miles east of Hydra Port; walk, water taxi, beach boat
Just down the road from Mandraki 1800 is Mandraki Beach Resort. It is quite fancy and was recently redone with beautiful suites (adults only). This would be my choice for a couple’s retreat or a solo wellness spot (they do yoga on the ocean- sounds fantastic).
You can rent sunbeds for the day even if you are not a resort guest if they have availability. Captain M is the resort restaurant and has good reviews, but again, is not cheap. The dinners look amazing though. They have a Beach Menu during the day that can be delivered straight to your sunbed if you are feeling too comfy to move.
Beaches West Of Hydra Port
Kamini
0.5 miles from Hydra Port; walk, water taxi, beach boat
There are several little swimming spots along the coastal walk to Kamini. You will see locals hanging out in these spots, swimming and diving off the rocks.
Kamini’s beach is small and just west of Kamini harbour, located next to the restaurant Castello. The restaurant rents chaise lounges and umbrellas for the beach and is also a good place for a sunset dinner. My favorite place for a quick beach outing from Hydra Port.
Vlychos
1.5 miles from Hydra Port; walk, water taxi, beach boat
The beach at Vlychos is nice, a little pebbly, but quiet. There are sunbeds for rent and 2 restaurants in the village for refreshments. Probably my favorite for a quiet read by the water.
Vlychos Plakes (Also Just Called Plakes)
2 miles from Hydra Port; hike, water taxi, beach boat
Just a little farther down from Vlychos, Plakes is a bit bigger of a semi-sandy beach with sunbed rentals and a restaurant run by the Four Seasons Resort Hotel at this beach. Probably my favorite for a day at the beach but with good food nearby.
*Tip- On hot summer days, you might walk to Vlychos and Vlychos Plakes in the morning, then take a water taxi back in the afternoon when the sun is blazing as the coastal path is not shaded.
Distant Beaches On Hydra
These beaches are accessible only by boat, long hikes, or long horseback rides.
If you want a picturesque and less crowded beach, then take one of the beach boats from the harbour to Bisti Beach or Agios Nikolaos. These remote beaches on the southwestern end of the island have sun chairs and small kiosks for snacks and drinks but you might want to take a picnic with you. And they don’t have toilets. You can take a water taxi or a beach boat to these beaches, just check the prices posted in Hydra Port and figure out which one is more cost-effective for your group.
There are a couple of even more secluded beaches listed on the website, HydraDirect. They are small and quite rocky but chances are you will have them all to yourself. There is no beach boat service, you must arrange a water taxi to get to these beaches. Many of them are on the southern coast and some can only be reached by boat so it really is your chance to live out your deserted island dreams.
Bisti Beach on Hydra. You can only get here by beach boat or water taxi but it does offer sunbed and umbrella rentals as well as refreshments. It’s a pretty sweet spot to spend the day. Photo courtesy of dronepicr, CC BY 2.0
Your 2 Day Itinerary In Hydra
Day 1: Arrival And Exploring Hydra Port
Arrive to the island by boat and check into your lodging.
Walk around Hydra Port, the main town on Hydra. Have snacks and drinks by the busy harbour and watch all the boats, stop by the interesting museum and the historic bastion with its cannons, and generally wander the cobblestone streets to your hearts content.
You could also spend the afternoon at the nearby beaches at Kamini, Mandraki, or Vlychos instead of walking around the main town. Or do both. The world’s your oyster and these villages aren’t a far walk, especially Kamini.
For dinner, head to a waterfront restaurant to enjoy amazing sunset views and fresh seafood.
Day 2: Explore More Of Hydra- Go For A Hike Or Check Out A Distant Beach
There are many hiking trails to choose from, running all over the hillsides of Hydra. The hike to Mount Eros on the top of the island is a popular one because of its spectacular, 360 view. Or you can do an easier stroll along a coastal path to a nearby beach. Any walk you choose will be scenic. You can also do horseback rides to some of these destinations.
If hiking isn’t your thing, then take a beach boat or hire a water taxi to take you to one of the more distant beaches on the island. Or take a decently long stroll to Vlychos Plakes for some beach time and a great meal at the restaurant, then take a water taxi back. So many beach options!
Day 1- Arrival And Exploring Hydra Port
Arrival On Hydra
When you get off the water taxi, you will need to make your way to your lodging, either by foot or by mule. Most hotels aren’t far from the waterfront as the crow flies but the streets are cobblestone and generally uphill so pulling a suitcase gets old fast. The mules are popular for a reason.
If your hotel organizes luggage pick-up at the water taxi, just be aware it often isn’t included in your stay and you are still responsible for paying the muleteer.
For our best lodging recommendations, see “Where To Stay On Hydra.”
Hydra’s waterfront is busy. You can see the mules for rent in the center of the picture and the water taxis on the left.
Explore Hydra Port - Historical Archives Museum, Bastion, Windmill
After you check into your lodgings, park yourself by the waterfront, grab a bite to eat, and watch the action. You can choose to watch tourists attempt to ride the mules around town, the water taxis taking calls and speeding off to different parts of the island, or just try to guess which yacht is the most expensive (the kids had fun with this one).
Walk to the historic Bastion and Terrace at the east entrance of the harbour and climb up to the cannon mounts to get a nice view over Hydra Port. There is a statue of Admiral Miaoulis on the terrace. (He is a famous Hydriot who led the Greek Navy to victory against the Ottomans in the War of Greek Independence- see my super brief history of Hydra at the end of this blog for more. His name will come up a lot on the island.)
A map of Hydra Port. Map courtesy of Open Street Maps with my own additions.
On the way to the bastion, you will pass the Historical Archives and Museum of Hydra. This little museum is small but well laid out, with period outfits, weapons, and lots of naval history. Most fascinating for the kids though, will be a jar supposedly containing the heart of Admiral Miaoulis (there’s that name again - see the Short History of Hydra below for more). The Museum is open everyday 9 am-4 pm (and until 730 pm- 930 pm in the summer). Tickets are €5.
Also on this side of the harbour, between the bastion and the museum, you will find the old quarantine buildings. The plague was a recurrent issue in much of Greece during the 17th and 18th centuries, and the plague of 1792 killed many of the island’s inhabitants, leaving much of the island abandoned. These buildings were constructed in 1828 to replace the previous quarantine places, one of which was on a small rock (like barely qualifies as a land mass small rock) opposite the village of Vlychos. If you see it on one of your walks around the island, it will make you feel for the people who were sent there for the requisite 40 days of isolation. You can see how the new building were considered a vast improvement.
You can see the bastion and its cannons guarding the entrance to Hydra Port in this picture (and the tiny statue of Admiral Miaoulis in the middle of the cannons if you look hard). The quarantine buildings are next to the bastion and the Historical Archives Museum is next to them with the flags out front.
You can also walk to the windmill on the west side of the harbour and see the dolphin statue that commemorates the Sophia Loren movie, Boy On A Dolphin. This movie was huge for leading the way to Hydra’s rebirth as a tourist destination in the 1960s.
There is a Greek flag atop the rocky hill behind the windmill that you can climb up to. Just follow the paths up from the windmill that lead you around the base of the hill to the backside where you can then make your way up.
Once you feel like you have seen all the sights along the harbour, start wandering up the streets of Hydra Port. And I do mean up literally. Walk up Miaouli St. to Votsi Square and treat yourself to something from the pastry shop there, or maybe from one along the harbour. There are lots of art galleries, tourist shops, and clothing stores, and other kinds of retail outlets to keep you poking around for awhile, all within a few minutes walk of the waterfront.
*Pro- Tip- Look up on the sides of the buildings at the street corners for the small embedded plaques that tell the street names. Unfortunately, many of the smaller streets aren’t signed at all but the town is not large and it is pretty easy to find your way around.
You can see the canopies over the outside eating terrace for Sunset Restaurant in this picture. The windmill made famous in Boy On A Dolphin is just behind the restaurant. The Greek flag that you can climb up to flies up on the flagpole at the very top of the rocky hill seen in this photo.
Optional Activity On Your First Day In Hydra- Head To A Beach Near Hydra Port
If you feel that the beach is calling you rather than exploring town (an understandable and laudable life choice), then I would head to one of the nearby beaches like Kamini, Vlychos, or Mandraki. All of those are less than 2 miles from Hydra Port (Kamini is only 0.5 miles). You can walk or take a water taxi. See the Beaches Of Hydra section above for descriptions.
Dinner On Day 1 In Hydra- Go For The Sunset
Walk an easy half mile to the nearby village of Kamini on the coastal path from Hydra Port to have dinner at Kodylenia’s Taverna and enjoy the sunset.
Or try one of the other seafront restaurants in Hydra Port like Sunset Restaurant (the name says it all) or Omilos, although those are a little dressier than Kodylenia’s. Techne Restaurant is another option for a great sunset view. There’s more about all the sea view restaurants on Hydra under “Where To Eat” further along in the blog so keep scrolling.
Day 2- Explore More Of Hydra
Hiking, Boat Trips, or Horseback Rides Are All Wonderful Ways To See More Of The Island Of Hydra
Tips For Hiking On Hydra
The lack of cars makes Hydra a walking paradise. There are paths criss-crossing the island and gorgeous views around every bend and hilltop. Just be careful of the sun, the heat, and be sure to take lots of water with you! This island doesn’t have many natural sources of water (despite the name) and once you get out of Hydra Port, it is sparsely populated. There aren’t cafes or bodegas scattered around where you can buy drinks or snacks.
I strongly recommend looking at Google Maps beforehand so you have an idea of where you are going, at least aerially. Many of the trails are not much more than goat paths and there are a lot of goat paths on this island.
The good news is that the island isn’t that big and the main landmarks are fairly easy to spot from a distance. Also, the Greek tourism office and island government have been making an effort to maintain and mark the main trails.
HydraTrails website (run by the municipality) has many of the main walking paths listed with downloadable GPX files and pictures. And they have a free app (on Apple and Android) that has the same info. It’s a pretty good app and worth the download if you are planning on walking anywhere besides the main coastal paths.
The website and app has 3 big loops listed- 1) eastern Hydra, 2) western Hydra, and 3), around town. Many of the walks I talk about below are included in those big loops.
*Put the emergencies service number- 199- in your phone before you leave in case you twist an ankle or worse. Even with minimal cell service, often emergency calls will go through.
Map Of Some Of The Hiking Destinations On Hydra
Map of Hydra showing some of the most popular hiking destinations on the island. Map courtesy of OpenStreetMaps with my own additions.
Shorter Walks Around Hydra
1. Coastal Paths - various distances
If you have less mobile people in the group and want to avoid stairs as much as possible, you can stroll the coastal paths from the harbour at Hydra Port to Kamini (0.5 miles from Hydra Port), Vlychos (1.5 miles), and Mandraki (1.3 miles). *Mileage is estimated from the middle of Hydra Port by the harbour.
These coastal paths are easier walks, usually paved with cobblestones (but are pretty smooth for the most part). You will see swimming spots scattered along these coastal paths so they are a great choice in the summer.
The coastal path between Kamini and Vlychos is pretty smoothly paved but has no shade at all as you can see. Sunscreen, hats, sunglasses, etc are a must. The fabulous views of the sea more than make up for it though.
2. Agios Konstantinos
1.2 miles RT, 360 ft elevation gain, 30 - 60 min
A hike to a beautiful church and an amazing view over the port of Hydra. (Agios means saint in Greek.)
The beginning of this trail is the same as the walk up to Profitis Ilias Monastery (mentioned down below) so there are some small, yellow signs to follow, at least initially. Take Miaoulia Street from the waterfront quite a way uptown (literally) until you come to a fork in the road. Turn right, following the super small yellow signs for Profitis Ilias, and taking the street with what looks like a massive drainage canal in the middle. I am not sure what it is but it means the sides of the street are several feet higher than the middle.
Alternate Route- You can avoid the worst of the stairs by going left at the fork on Miaoulia instead of right and following a more gently inclined path up and around to the church. It is a bit longer and will bring you up and behind the church. Once you get up to the tree-lined section, you will see the path up to Profitis Ilias split off and continue going up while you walk down to Agios Konstantinos.
When you get to Kala Pigadia (means “good wells”), you will see two large, white cisterns in a small plaza. These are old water cisterns but are no longer used. Turn right and go up the stairs behind them. These stairs are an actual street and you will begin to see the mule’s appeal for getting around Hydra.
When you see the yellow sign for Profitis Ilias, turn left to keep going up some more stairs and find your way to Agios Konstantinos. Just keep going up stairs and you’ll get there. Again, Google Street View of this hike helped us to recognize the turns. It is worth a quick purview.
The deck outside the church has a fantastic view over Hydra Town below and an arched portico that’s a perfect shady spot for a water break.
Click on images below to enlarge
The fabulous view from Agios Konstantinos. You look out over Hydra Port, the strait, and back to the Peloponnese Peninsula. It was a wonderful place to stop and hang out for a bit.
My Mini Loop Hike Around Hydra
The Harbour In Hydra Port >> Agios Konstantinos >> Vlychos >> Hydra Port
3.5 miles, + 360ft elevation gain, 2 hours (3 hours if you stop for snacks and drinks in Vlychos like us)
I combined the walk up to Agios Konstantinos, a hike out to the village of Vlychos, and the coastal walk back to Hydra Port for a 3.5 miles total loop hike. The elevation gain is mild and almost all at the beginning- 360ft as you are walking up the steps to the church. The rest of the walk is downhill or fairly flat. I find that’s best for the kids- get the hard part out of the way first.
There are 2 tavernas and a beach in Vlychos as well as a beach and tavernas in Kamini, so you can have easy swim breaks as well as ice cream and a beer if it gets hot. We stopped at Enalion in Vlychos and had some mezes, desserts, and drinks.
And you can call the water taxi from either of those villages as well, in case somebody decides they are done walking. Just ask at one of the restaurants if you don’t have cell service. We did this as well - the server at Enalion was happy to call a water taxi for the half of the family that didn’t want to walk back to Hydra Port.
Map of my 3.5 mile loop hike on Hydra. Map courtesy of OpenStreetMaps with my own additions.
Part 1 of my mini-loop: Hydra Harbour up to Agios Konstantinos
0.6 miles, 360 feet elevation gain, uphill the whole way
Follow the path outlined above under “Short Hikes - Agios Konstantinos.”
Part 2 of my mini-loop: Agios Konstantinos west to Vlychos
roughly 1.25 miles, mostly flat, then downhill at the end
When you are ready to tear yourself away from the fantastic views at Agios Konstantinos and continue onto Vlychos, go back down the steps from the church to the last yellow sign you saw for Profits Ilias Monastery. It’s where the steps you took up from Kala Pigadia met a wide paved lane leading between the houses in the upper part of Hydra Port.
Now turn left here, or west, to take this lane through the upper part of Hydra Port. This is Kiafa, the old quarter, and occasionally you will see the old bridges that used to connect the houses above you. This gets a little tricky as you want to stay mostly level and heading west but the “road” is sometimes wide, sometimes an alley between houses, and occasionally a short tunnel under a house.
There used to be green or red arrows spray painted on the ground so you can look for those. Again, stay as flat as you can and headed west and you should come out okay. There is only one path to Vlychos from the upper section of Hydra Town and most of the lanes find their way to it.
Once you get out of Hydra Port, the path to Vlychos is a narrow, paved cobblestone road through scrubby pasture land. There isn’t much shade but it is a rustic kind of scenic. As you round the corner to come down into Vlychos, you will see the lovely arched historic bridge.
The village of Vlychos has a small beach, some houses, and two restaurants. Enalion overlooks the beach and has a super friendly owner, delicious desserts, and good beer prices. They were also nice enough to call a water taxi for those in our group who didn’t want to walk anymore. Marinas Taverna is more expensive but has a wonderful view looking west and is on the water right by the ferry wharf.
Click on images below to enlarge
Part 3 of my mini-loop: Vlychos Back To Hydra Port
about 1.3 miles, well- maintained coastal path, fairly flat
From the beach at Vlychos, walk back up the path to the arched bridge you passed coming in. Cross the bridge and head east back towards Hydra Port along the coastal path. This is a pretty easy walk although it can get hot in the summer as there is no shade between Vlychos and Kamini. (I feel like a broken record at this point about the shade. Sorry.)
In about ¾ of a mile you will come to the village of Kamini. Before you get to the harbour, you will see a small beach on the left, by Castello’s bar.
After Kamini, it is just about 0.5 miles to get you back to Hydra Port, passing by Avlaki Beach and the famous windmill from the Sophia Loren movie Boy On A Dolphin. A statue of a boy riding a dolphin is next to the windmill if you want to climb up some stairs to see it. You will also pass by the Leonard Cohen memorial bench just before you get to the windmill. Leonard Cohen made Hydra his home in the 1960s, helping to cement its reputation as an artistic haven. (The kids were singularly unimpressed by this fact because, you know, the 60’s were in ancient times.)
Click on images below to enlarge
Long Day Hikes On Hydra
All of the mileage listed on the following hikes uses the harbour of Hydra Port as a starting place.
1. Profitis Ilias Monastery and Mount Eros
5 Miles RT, 3-5 hours, + 1900 ft elevation gain
This is a moderately difficult hike with lots of stairs and limited shade (although that’s true for many of the hikes on Hydra). Expect the hike all the way up to Mount Eros to take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours. Google Earth has actually done this hike so you can scope it out on Streetview, which is helpful for some of the turns.
The first part of the hike goes from the waterfront up to Agios Konstantinos. This section is described above under “Shorter Strolls.” Once you get to Agios Konstantinos, you continue up a tree- lined path and then you get to go up the many, many, many stairs to the monastery.
You can hike just to the monastery (about 2 miles) if you have younger children or not the best shoes, as the last 0.5 mile up to Mount Eros is rocky and the path isn’t well delineated. Follow the blue painted rocks to get to the very top of Mount Eros from the monastery. I would absolutely look at this ahead of time on Google Maps or use the Hydra Trails app or maps on their website so you have an idea of where to go from the monastery.
You might be able to walk around inside the monastery, depending on the monks’ schedule. Look for a place by the main gate for scarves and aprons to borrow to cover up (although it would be a nice touch to throw a scarf in your backpack as well). The monks also provide snacks and drinks (even canned beer sometimes) with an honesty payment box so bring some cash as well in your backpack.
Profitis Ilias Monastery on Hydra with the mainland in the background.
2. Zourvas Monastery
6 miles one- way, 1200 feet elevation change
Take a water taxi out to Zourvas Monastery on the eastern side of the island and hike back to Hydra Port. You can make this a round-trip hike (12 miles RT) but it will definitely be an all day adventure that I would not attempt during the summer because of the temperatures.
I recommend taking a water taxi there as it is easier to find the way back from the monastery than it is to find the path there from Hydra Port. And it is much easier to get a water taxi from town out there rather than trying to call one from the monastery to come get you. The path back from the monastery is a very rough goat path so good shoes and lots of water are requirements for this hike.
The Monastery is still functioning, run by 5 nuns, and you are welcome to tour between 11am- 1pm if you have appropriate dress (not too much bare skin and no obscene shirts.) A monetary donation towards the upkeep of the monastery is always appreciated.
It is around €60 for the water taxi for up to 8 people one- way out to Zourvas (2023 prices). You have to climb 645 steps up to the monastery from the dock but from there it is a somewhat level stroll back to Hydra Port. You can explore around on the sheep paths on that eastern end of the island near the monastery to add some more miles if you want.
*Trivia Alert- The 645 steps up to the monastery were created by a local shepherd over a period of 19 years. That’s one heck of a public service project.
You can also take a water taxi all the way out to Zourvas Lighhouse on the far eastern end of the island and hike back from there. There isn’t really a beach so the taxi will land you on the rocks on the shore, meaning this can only be done on calm days.
3. Episkopi
9 miles RT, max elevation of 700 feet
Hike to the old village of Episkopi in a valley on the western part of the island. This is a long hike as you must hike there and back; there is no water taxi home as the village is not on the water. It’s a beautiful hike though.
Episkopi is rumoured to be an old Byzantine town, or an old pirate hideout, depending on who you ask, but there isn’t much in the village itself. This hike is more about the scenery along the way rather than the destination.
If you are beat, you can get a water taxi back from Vlychos Plakes beach (2 miles from Hydra Port.) If you take the water taxi there and back, the hike is only 5 miles RT from Vlychos Plakes out to Episkopi. Try asking at the Four Seasons Hotel in Vlychos Plakes to call you a taxi if you don’t have international service on your phone. The Four Seasons does a nice lunch and dinner as well, so it makes a great stop on your hike.
Or even closer is Palamidas, just 1.8 miles from Episkopi. This is a small place though, more a boatyard where locals store boats for the winter and there is no cafe/ store to buy refreshments or call a taxi back. If you want to eliminate lots of walking but still want to see the greener valley of the island where Episkopi is located, maybe take a water taxi out to Palamidas for the start and then call a taxi from Vlychos Plakes for the return.
Optional Activities On Day 2 In Hydra- Horseback Riding On Hydra With Harriet’s Hydra Horses
Instead of 2 legs, go for 4!
If you enjoy horseback riding, check out Harriet’s Hydra Horses. Many of the hikes I described above can also be done on horseback and she even does sea swims.
Harriet has been doing this for a long time and has all the equipment you will need, including helmets, and she is licensed. I haven’t been able to do one of her rides yet, but it is definitely on my list. They look like a ton of fun.
Optional Activities On Day 2 In Hydra- Taking A Boat To The Distant Beaches On Hydra
If going for a long hike isn’t your thing, then spend the day out at one of the more distant beaches on the island. Take a beach boat out to Bisti or Agios Nikolaos or hire a water taxi to one of the small coves on the island. Or really splurge and hire a boat for the day to take you around the island and have several different stops.
Bisti Beach and Agios Nikolaos have some services, such as sunbed rental and refreshments, and are serviced by the beach boats with set pick-up and drop-off times. Many of the other beaches listed by HydraDirect are little more than pebbly coves and can only be reached by water taxi. Chances are you will have them to yourself though, and you will get a scenic tour of the island while on the ride there and back.
Dinner Day 2 - Last Night On Hydra
Again go for the sunset view if you want to splurge but maybe tonight, try one of the quieter places off the beaten track, like Giasemi, or traditional Greek food at Xeri Elia Douskos in Hydra Port or Taverna Christina in Kamini. Again, keep scrolling for a detailed description of these restaurants under “Where To Eat.”
If you are feeling up for it, sample some of the nightlife. Most of it is centered around the harbor and really gets going about midnight. It can keep going until dawn too. (I should have really come to Hydra in my twenties for this part, I think.)
Where To Eat On Hydra - Best Restaurants, Bakeries, And Tavernas
Okay you have some options here- do you want to be perched along the coastal walk enjoying sunset views of the Mediterranean? Tucked into a corner of the charming cobblestone streets of Hydra Port? Or lounging under an awning along the harbour watching the boats coming and going? You really are spoiled for choice but I will try to give at least a broad category of your options.
Note- I found most of the food on Hydra more expensive than I was expecting, mostly because I found other places in Greece to be so inexpensive. But once I remembered I was on an island and all the fresh food logistics that entails, the price of food really wasn’t bad. But don’t expect mainland prices.
Note #2- Many of the restaurants are closed in winter so be sure to check websites before getting your heart set on one if you are here Nov- March. Especially if you were going to walk out of your way to get to this dream restaurant.
Where To Eat In Hydra Port
Hydra Port will be your main option for food as most of the restaurants on Hydra are located here. The harbour area is by far the most touristy but it can also be a fascinating place to sit back and watch all the comings and goings.
The streets near the waterfront have small tavernas tucked into corners with a few tables outside and occasionally more in a little garden. There isn’t anything more than a 5 minute walk away from the harbour as the upper parts of Hydra Port are all residential.
Bakeries In Hydra Port
If looking to save a little cash, I would get breakfast at one of the great bakeries on Hydra. Also good for getting snacks for hiking or mid-afternoon treats so the kids aren’t starving by the time you sit down at the expensive restaurant for dinner.
Tsagaris - A historic confectionery in business since 1930, they are especially known for their amygdalota. Down a little alley not far from the harbour, it is marked on GoogleMaps.
EU Bakery (marked as Dougras Bakery on GoogleMaps)- A good-sized bakery, they have bread as well as pastries plus coffee and ice cream. Located on the east side of the harbour, near the museum.
Anemone- On Votsi Square, you can get your sweet treat and coffee and eat on the tables they have out front overlooking the square. Known for their rice pudding.
Restaurants Along the Harbour in Hydra Port
Lots and lots to choose from and mostly similar to each other. Can get quite busy when ferries come in.
We ate at Isalos when we got off our ferry at lunchtime and it was quite good. Got pizzas to split between kids and adults so everyone was happy.
The Cool Mule is a neat place with delicious homemade ice cream. A welcome refreshment stop while walking around the town.
The many restaurants along the harbour in Hydra Port have huge canopies providing much appreciated shade in the hot summer. The distinctive clock tower in the background is good landmark for directions in the town.
Restaurants With a Sea View in Hydra Port
Sunset Restaurant - An upscale seafood restaurant perched overlooking the water, this is an absolutely beautiful place to watch the sunset (the name is entirely appropriate). Try your best for a seaside table- like really, reeeally hard. It is why you are here.
Techne Restaurant & Social - Overlooking Avlaki Beach, which is along the coastal path toward Kamini. This is a great place for the sunset as well and again, I would do everything to sit outside. Not sure if the prices would be as worth it if I ate inside. Seafood.
Omilos - A lovely place that has a reputation as one of the best restaurants in Hydra. It is located right by the entrance to Hydra Port so lots to watch as boats come in and out of the harbour. Modern Mediterranean food.
Restaurants Not Along the Water in Hydra Port
Kai Kremmidi - A casual tiny place that serves good souvlaki and gyros for a great price. No website but you can see the write- up on HydraDirect or read reviews on TripAdvisor.
Giasemi - If it’s away from the tourist crowds you want, then head up to Giasemi, one of the restaurants farthest from the harbour in Hydra Port. Traditional Greek food and about a 5 min walk.
Caprice - Italian food (pizza for the win with the kids) plus wine plus seafood makes everyone in my group kinda happy.
Xeri Elia (aka Douskos Taverna)- No website but you can look them up on HydraDirect or read reviews on TripAdvisor. Traditional Greek food under a huge canopy of wisteria, this is a magical kind of place at night.
Restaurants in Kamini
Kodylenia’s Taverna - Overlooking the harbour in Kamini and facing west, this place is maybe my first choice for a sunset dinner. Greek food and seafood.
Pirofani - If you want to feel like you are eating at a friend’s house (who happens to be an amazing cook), try to book yourself a table here. He is only open Wed- Sun in the summer and fall and limits the capacity. You really need to have a reservation. I have never gotten to eat here but it sounds wonderful and I am desperate to try it.
Taverna Christina - Traditional Greek food up the main street in Kamini but near enough to have a view of the harbour.
Kodylenia’s Taverna in Kamini is seen on the left. It faces west for a fantastic view of the sunset.
Restaurants Elsewhere on Hydra
Captain M Restaurant at Mandraki Beach Resort - Upscale restaurant in a 5 star beach resort in Mandraki Beach that serves Mediterranean- fusion style food including sushi. Your boat transfer from Hydra Port is included when you dine 630-11 pm. Definitely the place where your new stylish sundress that you bought for the trip for far too much money should be worn.
Enalion - In Vlychos, this beach restaurant is a great place to stop for a bite to eat and drinks while hiking around the island. That is what we did anyway. Has a lot of outdoor seating on a patio overlooking the beach. Super nice server who helped us call a water taxi for some of the group who wanted to head back to Hydra Port and not hike anymore in the blazing sun (wimps).
Taverna Marina - Also in Vlychos, this waterfront picturesque little taverna has good food and great views. It has some tables on a porch right on the water, definitely sit here for the view.
A (Super) Brief History Of Hydra
I love knowing the history of places as I feel it gives me context for the things I see. In Hydra’s case, knowing a little bit of the island’s history helps explain its lack of large developments, why the name Miaoulis keeps popping up, and why everyone keeps talking about the windmill.
Hydra has been inhabited since 3,000 BCE but its scant water supplies (despite its name) meant that most invaders passed it by, except for pirates and the plague. Lucky locals.
It wasn’t until the 18th and 19th century, when Hydriots began shipbuilding on a large scale, that they came into their own. Hydra’s ships were huge traders throughout the Mediterranean and even going as far as the Americas. Napoleon gave Hydra a gift in thanks for their ability to run the British blockade and bring food to France.
The War for Greek Independence (1821- 1832) is where Hydra especially makes its mark. Commanded by a local Hydriot, Admiral Miaoulis, the Hydriots and the Greek Navy caused heavy losses to the Ottoman navy. This was mostly due to their use of fireships which, while effective at taking out the enemy, does lead to a distinct loss of ships after the battle. By the time Independence was won, Hydra had very few vessels left for fishing and shipping, the lifeblood of the island. *Remember the name Miaoulis, he is very important on the island with a statue in the harbour, a street named after him, and a big festival in the summer.
To give you an idea of how important Hydra was to Greek Independence, a Hydriot, Lazaros Koundouriotis, donated 120 of his commercial ships to the Greek Navy. That increased its number to 160 ships total.
The island had some hard times after Independence, turning to sponge fishing for money and struggling with water supplies. But in 1956, Sophia Loren came to Hydra and filmed Boy on a Dolphin, bringing global attention to its gorgeous scenery. It sparked Hydra’s renaissance as a vacation destination and place to live. Remember the dolphin statue and windmill that you passed by in Hydra Port? It’s all because of this movie.
In the 1960s, the island became popular with tourists, celebrities, and artists for its beauty and bohemian lifestyle. Leonard Cohen had a house on Hydra if you are old enough for that to be a cool fact (I am - the kids are not, they were unimpressed). He wrote a lot of his early songs while he lived on the island.
Tourism is now the main economy on the island but guessing from the number of art galleries in Hydra Port, a fair number of artists still live on Hydra.
Some Interesting Factoids About Hydra
There are about 3,000 islanders currently and next to no sources of water on the island, funny as we derive our prefix for water, “hydro”, from the same root word as the island’s name. Earthquakes have destroyed most of the wells on the island so Hydra has had difficulty supplying itself with water.
Many houses are built with a basement cistern for catching the winter rainfall but 4 million, 1 litre bottles are also shipped each year. A desalination plant opened in 2014 and has replaced the daily water boat that used to supply the island. The wonderful website Hydra Direct is a fountain (Ha!) of information on the subject.
It has been illegal to build a swimming pool since 2010 if you were wondering why so few vacation rentals have them.
Travel Tips To Know About Hydra Specifically
HydraDirect is a great website for history, local landmarks, restaurants, festivals, beaches, basically almost anything you might want to know about traveling to Hydra. You’ll find information about restaurants, water taxis, a place for horseback riding, and even where you can get Greek lessons. I know I mentioned it many, many times in this itinerary but I can’t say enough how useful this website was for planning purposes. So I am saying it again here.
Water taxis are the fastest way to get around the island. Write down some of the phone numbers from the HydraDirect website to take with you on hikes in case you decided to quit early and need a pick-up. The tavernas can also be helpful and will sometimes call a boat for you, especially if you sit and have a drink.
Besides the usual Greek holidays, Hydra also celebrates the Miaoulia (usually around the 24th of June) commemorating the life of the Greek patriot and Hydriot, Admiral Miaoulis. The festival culminates with the burning of an Ottoman frigate and lots of fireworks. Hotel prices jump up during this time.
Hydra Trails Race (1st weekend in April) looks to be a lot of fun if you love trail running. There is a 26k, 13k, 5k, and a kids race.
The nightlife on Hydra is legendary and some of the bars will stay open nearly all night on summer weekends. The popular places are usually near the waterfront.
There are several mini-marts in Hydra Port so you can buy water, granola bars, etc for hikes. They are more expensive than the mainland but not unreasonably so.
Keep up with the news before you go as there are occasional strikes in Athens and nationwide. This can affect your travel plans if the ferry operators are joining in. It has never happened to us yet but we always read the news before we leave.
Predictably, winter sees a large drop in tourists but this can also mean a drop in prices. Many places are closed in the off-season (generally Nov- March) but there is still enough tourism that the island doesn’t shut down completely.
Tips To Know For Greece In General
Round up meals to the nearest euro for a tip. If the service is exceptional, then leave 5-10%. And often, a service charge is included on your bill so check before you leave anything. It may not be necessary.
Around 30% of Greeks still smoke, despite a law in 2008 banning smoking indoors and mandating separated sections in bars and restaurants. That law is not always rigorously (or sometimes even leniently) enforced so don’t be too surprised when someone lights up next to you.
Besides Christmas, know the other big Greek holidays:
Orthodox Easter is probably the biggest holiday of the year, even more so than Christmas.
Pentecost/ Whit Monday is also one to know as many Athenians will go to the islands over that long weekend. It could be much busier than normal on Hydra.
Apokreas is Mardi Gras and there will be lots of parties.
May Day (May 1st) and Independence Day (March 25) are important public holidays and government buildings/museums will be closed.
Rainy Day Activities On Hydra
*This will not be an issue for the months of April -September as Hydra averages less than an inch of rain during these months. Even in December, the wettest month, Hydra only averages 2.5 inches. But if you do happen to be here on one of those days, here are some ideas.
Visit one of the four museums on the island. The Historical Museum is mentioned in Day 1 so if you haven’t made it yet, now is the time. The Lazaros Koundouriotis Museum is in the family’s former mansion so you can see how a wealthy Greek shipping family would have lived around the time of Independence, complete with furniture and period costumes. There is also the Tetsis Home & Atelier (the home of Hydra’s most famous artist) and the tiny Ecclesiastical Museum that holds church regalia used in religious celebrations throughout the year.
A rainy day would probably not be a good day to head up to the Monastery Profits Ilias as all those stairs would be treacherous to navigate. Be very careful walking around any of the cobblestone streets or coastal paths on the island as they get very slick in the rain.
You could take the Freedom Ferry to the mainland and drive to the Theatre of Epidavros, Poros, or Nafplio for the day. If you don’t have a car at Metochi, then take the ferry to Ermioni and explore the town there.
Recommended Books And Movies Before You Visit Hydra
Boy on a Dolphin. 1957. The movie that spawned the resurgence of Hydra as a tourist destination. Sophia Loren is a sponge diver that finds a Greek sculpture and must decide to donate it to the government or sell it to an art buyer. Not the most gripping of stories but Hydra looks amazing. As does Sophia Loren.
Rhubarb! Tales of Survival on a Little Greek Island. David Fagan. This is an autobiographical tale of a guy who decided to stay on Hydra after an afternoon stop during a Greek island cruise. It is a collection of stories that range from the hilarious to the mildly amusing, but all give a great feel for the island and the islanders themselves. This book is a reprint of the stories from his first book, Rhubarb from a Rock, with some new additions.
Travels with Epicurus: A Journey to a Greek Island in Search of a Fulfilled Life. Daniel Klein. A 70 year old, very funny philosopher travels to Hydra to figure out the secret to growing old gracefully. There are philosophical tidbits mixed into a travel diary and it becomes a book that makes you stop and think without crossing over into “weighty tome” territory. Klein’s other book, Plato and a Platypus Walk Into A Bar, is also very entertaining.
Beautiful Animals. Lawrence Osborne. A thriller involving the refugee crisis in the Mediterranean, 2 spoiled and self- centered girls, and the question of how far should you go to help someone. It’s a thriller in the sense that the suspense is waiting for the characters to discover what you already know- that this is going to end poorly.
Marianne & Leonard: Words of Love. 2019. A documentary about the relationship between Leonard Cohen and his muse Marianne and their time on Hydra.
Final Thoughts
That’s all for this itinerary. Have a blast exploring Hydra! It truly is an amazing place. Send us your best photo and we may post it to our Instagram page. It doesn’t have to be you riding a mule although those do always make us laugh.
If you find an amazing restaurant, lodging, or activity that you think we should include or simply have a question or comment about anything in this itinerary, we would love to hear from you.
Happy Trails! - Amanda
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I was excited about visiting Hydra as soon as I came across a description of it in a guidebook- small, no cars, beautiful, no cars, easily accessible from the mainland, historic architecture, no cars..... I was desperate to go to this non- motorized paradise and made the rest of the family go with me. It did not disappoint. We loved this island.